Chevrolet · 10th gen (Epsilon II (long)) · 2014–2020
Chevrolet Impala (2014–2020): Problems, Reliability & Repair Costs
The last real Impala is a genuinely good large sedan — quiet, roomy, and comfortable — and the smartest used buy in its class if you pick the right engine. The 3.6L V6 (LFX) is the one to get and is largely trouble-free. The base 2.5L four-cylinder is the weak link, prone to creeping oil consumption. Early 2014–2015 cars also carried a string of recalls (parking brake, power steering) you'll want to confirm were closed out.
reliability score
Engines
- LCV — 2.5L gasoline, 196 hp
- LFX — 3.6L gasoline, 305 hp
- LFV (eAssist) — 2.5L hybrid, 182 hp
Transmissions
- 6T70/6T75 — automatic, 6-speed
Drivetrain
FWD
Body
sedan
Should you buy a 2014–2020 Chevrolet Impala?
Buy the V6. A 3.6L (LFX) Impala is one of the best big-sedan values on the used market — comfortable, well-equipped, and dependable into the 150k–200k range with normal maintenance. The 2.5L four-cylinder is the version to be careful with: it's underpowered for the car and is the engine associated with creeping oil consumption, so check the oil level and history closely on any four-cylinder car. On 2014–2015 cars, confirm the parking-brake and power-steering recalls were performed (a dealer can verify by VIN). 2016–2020 cars are the cleaner pick overall.
Best years
2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
Years to avoid
2014 (most recalls and early-build complaints), 2.5L four-cylinder cars (any year) unless oil use is verified low
Pre-purchase inspection checklist
- ☐Strongly prefer the 3.6L V6 over the 2.5L four-cylinder — confirm which engine is in the car (V6 has noticeably more power and a cleaner reliability record).
- ☐On any 2.5L car, pull the dipstick warm and ask the seller how often they add oil; creeping consumption with no leak and no smoke is the tell.
- ☐On 2014–2015 cars, have a Chevy dealer check the VIN for the parking-brake (14471) and power-steering (14V450/recall 14330) recalls — confirm both were completed.
- ☐Test the electronic parking brake: it should set and fully release without a warning light or drag.
- ☐Drive through 2nd-to-3rd shifts repeatedly; a hard or surging shift points to transmission solenoid wear.
- ☐Cycle the climate control through hot and cold and across vents — clicking or stuck temperature actuators are a known annoyance.
- ☐Try removing the key (on keyed cars) — a key that sticks in the ignition is a commonly reported nuisance.
- ☐On higher-mileage V6 cars, check for coolant weeping at the water pump and any cold-start timing-chain rattle.
Common Chevrolet Impala problems & repair costs
Excessive oil consumption (2.5L four-cylinder)
$200–$3,500Symptoms: Oil level dropping a quart or more between changes with no visible leak and little or no smoke. Owners report needing to top up regularly; if missed, low oil can lead to bigger engine damage. The four-cylinder shares GM's low-tension-ring Ecotec design family that drew oil-consumption class actions on related engines.
Fix: Mild cases are managed by checking and topping up oil between changes plus a PCV inspection (cheap). Severe cases need a piston-ring or partial engine job, which is why a four-cylinder car with documented low oil use is worth far more than one of unknown history.
Sources: Cherish Your Car — GM 2.5L engine problems (oil loss), Impala Forums — oil consumption problems, GM Authority — Ecotec oil-consumption class action
Electronic parking brake recall (2014–2015)
$0–$0Symptoms: The electronic parking brake actuator may not fully retract, leaving the pads partially engaged. That drags the brakes, builds excessive heat, and in the worst case created a fire risk. Some cars were re-remedied after the first fix was done incorrectly.
Fix: Covered by recall — dealers reflashed the electronic parking-brake software free of charge (GM recall 14471, began Oct 2014). Confirm by VIN that the remedy (and any follow-up) was completed; the fix costs you nothing but an unrepaired car is a safety issue.
Sources: CarComplaints — Chevy Impala parking-brake recall, NHTSA recall 15V085000 (2014 Impala parking brake)
Loss of electric power steering assist (2014 recall)
$0–$0Symptoms: A poor electrical ground at the power-steering control module can cause a sudden loss of power-steering assist at startup or while driving, making the car much harder to steer at low speed.
Fix: Covered by recall — dealers cleaned paint from behind the ground stud and updated the module software free of charge (NHTSA 14V450 / GM 14330, began Aug 2014). Verify it was performed; out of recall, an actual EPS module failure can run into four figures.
Sources: NHTSA recall 14V450000 (2014 Impala EPS), RepairPal — recall 14V450000
Rough / hard shifting from transmission solenoids
$400–$1,500Symptoms: Hard or jerky 2-to-3 upshift, occasional surge, or harsh engagement. Traced to pressure-control / shift solenoids inside the 6-speed automatic. GM's TSB 10023432 addresses a transmission surge condition.
Fix: Often a fluid service plus solenoid replacement; severe internal cases require partial transmission teardown. Keeping the fluid serviced is the best prevention.
Sources: My Auto Store — why 9th-gen Impala transmissions fail, CarProblemZoo — Impala transmission solenoid problems
Electrical gremlins (HVAC actuators, key stuck, modules)
$150–$1,200Symptoms: Clicking or stuck HVAC temperature-blend actuators (uneven or wrong-temperature air), the ignition key sticking and refusing to come out on keyed cars, and intermittent rear side-detection (blind-spot) warnings. Individually small, but several owners report electrical items as their main spend.
Fix: HVAC actuator replacement is the most common (moderate cost behind the dash). Key-stuck issues are often a shift-interlock or lock-cylinder fix; side-detection faults usually trace to a module or harness connection.
Sources: CarComplaints — 2014 Impala top problems (electrical / side detection), Endurance — common Chevy Impala problems
Water pump / cooling leaks (3.6L V6, higher mileage)
$500–$1,000Symptoms: Coolant weeping or low coolant on higher-mileage V6 cars, sometimes a sweet smell or residue near the front of the engine. The water pump is buried, so labor is the bulk of the cost.
Fix: Water-pump replacement. Because access is labor-intensive, many shops suggest doing it alongside any other front-of-engine work. Not a defect so much as a known wear item on this V6.
Sources: Powertrain Company — GM 3.6L V6 overview, GoTech — GM 3.6L timing chain / cooling
Pick the V6 and this is a cheap, comfortable car to own: parts are everywhere, it shares mechanicals with millions of GM vehicles, and the LFX is durable when oil changes are kept current. Most spend is normal wear — brakes, tires, a battery, and on higher-mileage V6 cars a water pump. The four-cylinder is where ownership cost gets unpredictable, because oil consumption can range from 'top it up occasionally' to a ring job. Budget the big transmission or engine numbers only for a neglected car; a maintained one is undemanding.
DIY repairs & parts
Replace HVAC cabin air filter
Tools: Screwdriver (glovebox stops)
- Open the glovebox and empty it.
- Release the glovebox stops/dampener so the box drops down fully and exposes the filter door.
- Open the filter cover and slide out the old cabin filter, noting the airflow arrow direction.
- Insert the new filter with the airflow arrow pointing the same way, close the cover, and re-seat the glovebox.
Parts
- Cabin air filter (2014–2020 Impala) · Amazon $10–$18
Replace engine air filter
Tools: Flathead screwdriver (airbox clips, if needed)
- Locate the airbox on top of the engine and release the lid clips or screws.
- Lift the airbox lid and pull the old panel filter straight out.
- Wipe out any debris in the box, drop in the new filter seated flat in its frame.
- Re-clip the lid and confirm it's sealed all the way around.
Parts
- Engine air filter (2014–2020 Impala) · Amazon $12–$22
Front brake pad replacement
Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Lug wrench, Socket set + caliper bolt sockets, C-clamp or caliper piston tool, Torque wrench
- Loosen the lug nuts, lift the front of the car, support it on jack stands, and remove the wheels.
- Unbolt the caliper, lift it off (hang it with wire — don't let it dangle by the hose), and remove the old pads.
- Compress the caliper piston with a C-clamp so the new, thicker pads will fit.
- Fit the new pads and any included hardware, reinstall the caliper, and torque the bolts to spec.
- Reinstall the wheels, torque the lug nuts, then pump the brake pedal until firm before driving.
Parts
- Front brake pads (2014–2020 Impala) · Amazon $30–$70
- Front brake rotors (pair, if needed) · Amazon $60–$120
Some parts links are affiliate links — we may earn a commission at no cost to you. We only list parts that fit this generation.
The short version
The 2014–2020 Impala was the last of a long line, and Chevy went out on a high note: it’s a big, quiet, comfortable sedan that’s now cheap to buy and cheap to run — if you choose the right engine. The 3.6-liter V6 (LFX) is the one to get. It’s strong, smooth, and durable, and it doesn’t suffer the oil-consumption issue that hangs over the four-cylinder.
The base 2.5-liter four-cylinder is the weak link. It’s underpowered for a car this size, and it shares GM’s low-tension-ring Ecotec design family that’s known for slowly burning oil with no leak and no smoke. That can mean anything from topping up a quart now and then to a ring job — so a four-cylinder car’s oil history matters a lot.
What to check before you buy
If you’re looking at a 2014 or 2015 car, two recalls are non-negotiable: the electronic parking brake (it could drag and overheat) and the electric power steering assist loss. Both were fixed free by Chevy dealers — confirm by VIN that the work was done, and note that some parking-brake cars needed a second fix.
On any model year, drive it: feel for a hard 2-to-3 shift (transmission solenoids), cycle the climate control for clicking blend actuators, and on keyed cars try pulling the key out (a sticking ignition is a common gripe). On higher-mileage V6 cars, glance at the water pump area for coolant weeping — it’s a known wear item, not a defect, but the labor isn’t cheap.
The bottom line
Buy the V6, prefer 2016–2020, and treat the four-cylinder cars with extra suspicion about oil use. Do that and you’ve got one of the best comfortable-big-sedan values on the used market — a car that quietly runs to 150k–200k with normal maintenance.
How this file is built: failure modes and cost ranges are compiled from NHTSA recall data, CarComplaints owner reports, GM service bulletins, and owner-forum reporting, then sanity-checked against shop-floor experience. Cost figures are independent-shop estimates and vary by region. Spot something off? Tell us.
Viral car myths, checked
- MISLEADING
Is the "$1 Japanese oil trick" that stops engine wear forever real?
The 'Japanese oil trick' is almost certainly MoS2 (molybdenum disulfide), a real industrial friction modifier. It is German, not Japanese (Liqui Moly popularized it), sold openly at every parts store for $15-20, has real but modest measured friction benefits, and was never buried by anyone.
- OUTDATED
Does a "$1 mineral" really double car battery life? The Epsom-salt reality.
The mineral is Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate). It was a real desulfation hack for serviceable flooded-cell batteries 40+ years ago. It does not work on modern sealed AGM or EFB batteries, and trying it on yours will void the warranty without helping the battery.
- DANGEROUS
Is the "$2 liquid that destroys engine sludge forever" real? Our shop-floor verdict.
An aggressive solvent flush on a high-mileage engine is a textbook way to spin a bearing. The viral 'kitchen-cabinet flush' is folklore that real shops spend money cleaning up after.
- MISLEADING
Is the "$2 liquid that stops any leak" really banned in 11 states?
Automotive stop-leak products are not banned in any US state. The products are real (Bar's Leaks, BlueDevil), they work in specific narrow situations, and they can permanently damage your cooling or oiling system if applied to the wrong leak.
Frequently asked questions
Which Chevrolet Impala engine should I buy — the 2.5L or the 3.6L?
Get the 3.6L V6 (LFX). It has plenty of power for a car this size and a cleaner reliability record. The 2.5L four-cylinder is adequate at best and is the engine tied to creeping oil consumption, so only buy a four-cylinder if you can verify it doesn't use oil and has clean service history.
What years of the 10th-gen Impala are best to buy used?
2017–2020 cars are the cleaner pick. The 2014 model carried the most early-build complaints and the parking-brake and power-steering recalls. Those recalls were fixed free, so a 2014–2015 car with both completed (verify by VIN) can still be a fine buy.
Is the Impala's oil consumption a real problem?
On the 2.5L four-cylinder, yes — it's a known pattern where the engine slowly burns oil with no visible leak. It ranges from a minor 'top it up' nuisance to needing a ring job. Check the oil level on any four-cylinder car and ask how often the seller adds oil. The 3.6L V6 does not share this issue.
How many miles will a 2014–2020 Impala last?
A well-maintained 3.6L V6 commonly reaches 150,000–200,000 miles. The V6 and 6-speed automatic are durable when fluids are serviced; most early retirements come from neglect, a starved four-cylinder, or deferred transmission service rather than the car simply wearing out.
Are the Impala recalls expensive to fix?
The major 2014–2015 recalls — electronic parking brake and electric power steering — were repaired free by Chevy dealers. The cost to you is zero if they were done. The real risk is an unrepaired car, so confirm by VIN that the remedies were completed before buying.