Case file · TOYOTA-CAMRY-2007-2011 · Field document
Toyota Camry 2007–2011 · Pre-purchase checklist
Bring this to the inspection. Every check below is specific to this generation's documented failure modes, not generic used-car advice.
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On 2007–2009 four-cylinders: pull the dipstick warm. Low and/or dark, thin oil plus a clean exterior (no leaks) points to the piston-ring oil burning. Ask how often the owner adds oil between changes.
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Confirm which engine it is. 2.4L (2AZ-FE) = at-risk years for the piston-ring oil burning; 2.5L (2AR-FE, 2010–2011) and 3.5L V6 (2GR-FE) = clear of that one.
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On any V6, run the VIN past a Toyota dealer for Limited Service Campaign 90K and look at the oil supply line at the front of the engine. Toyota's covered list runs 2007 through 2010 by VIN, so a later model year is not an all-clear. A rubber section means the original hose is still on the car. An all-metal line means the fix is done. This is the one failure that can empty the sump while you drive.
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Look (and feel) at the top of the dashboard. A sticky, shiny, or wavy surface is the known melting issue. It causes windshield glare and the free fix has expired.
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Test-drive at light throttle around 30–45 mph on a 2007–2009 car; a faint shudder before the upshift is the known torque-converter/software condition.
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Lock and unlock every door several times with the fob and the switch; listen for a buzzing or dead actuator, a common per-door failure.
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Check service records for timing-chain-area noise on high-mile 2AZ cars and for transmission fluid having ever been serviced.
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On the Hybrid, confirm the hybrid battery's health/age and that the 2.4L isn't also consuming oil.
2007–2009 2.4L (2AZ-FE) cars with no oil-consumption repair history