Ford Escape 2013–2019Common problems, reliability & repair costs

Symptoms: Slowly disappearing coolant with no external puddle, rough running or misfire (cylinder fills with coolant), overheating, white sweet-smelling exhaust. Worst case: coolant evaporating on a hot engine has ignited and caused engine-bay fires. Early 1.6L cars had a separate fire risk from a dislodged cylinder-head cup plug.

Fix: First check open recalls — early 1.6L Escapes were recalled for the cup-plug/fire issue and Ford performed coolant-system fixes. Where coolant has entered a cylinder, the realistic repair is a short-block or full engine replacement. Some owners pursued the EcoBoost coolant-intrusion class action; coverage on any given car varies.

Sources: NHTSA recalls/complaints — 2013 Ford Escape, ClassAction.org — Ford EcoBoost coolant/overheating, Green Car Reports — Escape 1.6L EcoBoost recall roundup

Symptoms: Torque-converter shudder/vibration at highway speed and on light throttle, harsh or banging shifts, slipping, hesitation, warning lights, and in the worst reports the car losing drive entirely on the road.

Fix: Catch early: a fluid service and TCM recalibration can quiet mild shudder. Once friction material is gone or metal is in the fluid, the fix is a rebuilt or remanufactured 6F35 (commonly $3,200–$4,500 for the unit, more with torque converter and labor). Dealer trans-and-converter jobs have run toward $8k.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2013 Escape transmission failure, FordProblems — 3rd-gen Escape problems

Symptoms: Sudden loss of power-steering assist — wheel goes heavy — often with a 'power steering assist fault' warning. Intermittent at first for some owners.

Fix: Diagnose the cause; the common fix is replacing the electric steering rack/EPAS unit (or, on some, the steering column/sensor). Check for any applicable Ford service action by VIN before paying out of pocket.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2013 Escape steering, FordProblems — 3rd-gen Escape problems

Symptoms: A door that won't stay latched, or that appears closed but isn't — and can open while driving. Caused by a broken pawl spring inside the latch.

Fix: Covered by a large Ford recall — affected latches were replaced free. Confirm the recall work was done by VIN; out of coverage, it's a per-door latch replacement.

Sources: Ford recall details — Escape, CarComplaints — 2013 Escape recalls

Symptoms: Engine cuts out or shuts down while driving, sometimes with a check-engine light; frequently tied back to the EcoBoost cooling/overheating issues or related sensor faults.

Fix: Diagnose the trigger — could be the coolant-intrusion chain of events, a sensor, or fuel-delivery fault. Address any open recalls first, as several stalling reports trace to the same cooling defect.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2013 Escape engine, FordProblems — 3rd-gen Escape problems

Tools: Flat screwdriver (airbox clips), Shop towel

1. Pop the airbox clips on the engine air filter housing and lift the lid.
2. Remove the old panel filter, note its orientation, and drop the new one in.
3. Re-clip the airbox lid securely.
4. For the cabin filter, open the glovebox, release the side stops to drop it down, and pull the filter cover behind it.
5. Slide out the old cabin filter and insert the new one with the airflow arrow pointing the correct way.

Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Socket set + Torx bits, Fluid pump / funnel, Drain pan

1. Warm the transmission to operating temp, then safely raise and level the vehicle.
2. Remove the drain plug (or pan) and drain the old fluid, measuring what comes out.
3. Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer, or refit the pan with a new gasket and filter.
4. Refill with the exact Mercon-LV-spec fluid, matching the drained quantity through the fill port.
5. Check level per Ford's temperature-based procedure, then road-test for smooth shifts.

Tools: Spark plug socket + extension, Torque wrench, Ratchet set, Dielectric grease

1. Let the engine cool fully, then remove the engine cover and any intake piping in the way.
2. Unbolt and lift each coil-on-plug, labeling them by cylinder.
3. Remove each old plug, check it for coolant fouling (a coolant-intrusion warning sign), and gap the new plugs to spec.
4. Thread new plugs in by hand, then torque to the EcoBoost spec — do not overtighten the aluminum head.
5. Refit the coils with a little dielectric grease, reinstall the cover and piping, and start to confirm a smooth idle.