Hyundai Santa Fe 2019–2023Common problems, reliability & repair costs

Symptoms: Deep knocking that worsens with miles, a blinking check-engine light with code P1326 and reduced power (the KSDS knock-sensor software catching the early failure pattern), metal in the oil, then stalling or a seized engine.

Fix: Engine long-block replacement. Hyundai's TXXI warranty extension (TSB 22-EM-001H-1, from the class-action settlement) makes rod-bearing long-block replacement a limited LIFETIME warranty on listed vehicles — and the 2019 Santa Fe (TM) 2.4/2.0T is on that list, transferable to later owners, conditioned on the KSDS update (Campaign 953) and a clean vehicle history. The 2020 Santa Fe is NOT on the published TXXC/TXXI lists despite carrying the same engines, so have a dealer confirm coverage by VIN before buying. Out of coverage, a replacement engine runs roughly $4,000–$8,000.

Sources: Hyundai TSB 22-EM-001H-1 — Engine Warranty Extension (TXXI), applicable vehicles incl. 2019 Santa Fe (TM), HyundaiEngineInfo.com — Theta II settlement & KSDS FAQ, Four Wheel Trends — Hyundai engine replacement cost out of warranty

Symptoms: No warning in most cases: water gets into the tow-hitch harness module's circuit board, which has constant power, and can short and start a fire even while the vehicle is parked and off.

Fix: Covered by recall (NHTSA 23V-181 / Hyundai Recall 244): dealers install a new fuse and wire-extension kit free of charge. Until it's done, Hyundai advised parking outside and away from structures. Applies to hitches fitted at the factory or sold through dealers — verify completion by VIN on any Santa Fe with a hitch.

Sources: NHTSA — Safety Recall Report 23V-181 (tow hitch harness fire), Hyundai Recall 244 — 2019–2023 Santa Fe, 2021–2023 HEV, 2022–2023 PHEV

Symptoms: Recall failure mode: warning lights, about 20–30 seconds of normal driving, then complete loss of drive power when the transmission's electric oil pump faults and the fail-safe logic doesn't hold the car in a limp mode. Day-to-day complaints: hesitation off the line, jerky low-speed creep, and shudder in parking maneuvers.

Fix: Recall 22V-746 (53,142 vehicles incl. 2021–2022 Santa Fe 2.5T): dealers inspect, reprogram the software, and replace the transmission if it faulted — free. The low-speed manners are inherent to a dual-clutch; software updates help, but test-drive it in traffic and decide if you can live with it. The 2.5 non-turbo and hybrid use conventional automatics and avoid all of this.

Sources: NHTSA recall 22V-746 — owner notification (DCT oil pump / loss of drive power), ATSG — Hyundai recalls 53,000 vehicles with DCT issue

Symptoms: Engine stalls or shuts down while driving, often at low speeds and at very low mileage — CarComplaints' worst-reported 2019 problem, with stalls averaging around 6,000 miles. NHTSA logs 60+ engine-category complaints on the 2019 alone.

Fix: No single recall covers the stalling complaints; reported causes vary (fuel delivery, software, and early Theta II failures overlap here). On a used 2019, pull the service history for stall-related visits and make sure all software campaigns are applied. A stall complaint plus a P1326 history points back to the engine problem above.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe problems

Symptoms: Burning noticeable oil between changes with no external leak. On the Theta II engines, running low accelerates the rod-bearing wear that kills them; owners of 2021+ 2.5s have filed similar complaints, and a 2022 class action named the 2015–2021 Santa Fe among many Hyundai models.

Fix: Check the dipstick monthly and document consumption with an oil-consumption test at a Hyundai dealer — on a 2019 that documentation supports a warranty engine claim. Outside coverage it's a monitoring cost first, and ring/engine work only in severe cases.

Sources: Top Class Actions — Hyundai excessive oil consumption class action, CarProblemZoo — Santa Fe engine burning oil complaints (NHTSA data)

Tools: No tools for the airbox (clips), Small screwdriver for the glovebox stops if needed

1. Unclip the airbox lid in the engine bay, lift it, and note how the old panel filter sits.
2. Drop in the new engine air filter the same way and re-clip the lid.
3. Open the glovebox, release the side stops so it swings down, and pull the cabin-filter cover.
4. Slide out the old cabin filter; insert the new one with the airflow arrow pointing the same direction as the old one.
5. Close everything up and confirm airflow at the vents.

Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Lug + caliper socket set, C-clamp or caliper piston tool, Torque wrench, Brake cleaner

1. Loosen lug nuts, raise the front, support on stands, and remove the wheels.
2. Unbolt the caliper, hang it from the suspension (don't stress the hose), and remove the old pads and bracket.
3. Slide off the old rotor; clean the new rotor's anti-rust coating off with brake cleaner.
4. Compress the caliper piston, fit the new rotor and pads, and reassemble with the bracket and caliper torqued to spec.
5. Reinstall wheels, lower the car, and pump the brake pedal firm before driving; bed in the pads gently.

Tools: 10–12mm socket or wrench, Battery terminal brush, Memory saver (optional but keeps radio/window presets)

1. With the ignition off, disconnect the negative terminal first, then the positive.
2. Remove the battery hold-down bracket and lift the old battery out.
3. Clean the terminal clamps and tray, set the new Group 48 (H6) battery in, and refit the hold-down.
4. Connect positive first, then negative, and torque the clamps snug.
5. Start the car and confirm no stop/start (ISG) or charging warnings; presets may need resetting without a memory saver.