Chevrolet Impala 2006–2013Common problems, reliability & repair costs

Symptoms: Added weight on the key ring plus a jarring event (pothole, rough road) can rotate the key out of 'run,' cutting engine power, power steering, and power brakes, and potentially disabling airbag deployment in a crash.

Fix: Covered by recall — GM dealers install two smaller key rings and an insert/cover on the key head at no charge (GM recall 14299 / NHTSA campaign 14V355000). Confirm completion by VIN; until then, keep only the ignition key on the ring.

Sources: NHTSA recall 14V355000 — Impala, Lucerne, DTS, Monte Carlo, GM Authority — 2008 Impala recall 14V355000 detail

Symptoms: Slow, hard-to-spot coolant loss, occasional sweet smell, rough idle or a P0300/P0171 code as the plastic-carrier lower intake gasket cracks with age and Dex-Cool exposure. Left unaddressed it can lead to overheating.

Fix: Replace the lower intake manifold gasket set — aftermarket kits with an aluminum carrier (vs. the original plastic) are the durable fix. Labor is the bulk of the cost since the intake has to come off.

Sources: Go-Parts — 2006–2011 GM 3.5L/3.9L V6 intake manifold gasket guide, RepairPal — Impala intake manifold gasket coolant/oil leak

Symptoms: Slipping under load, delayed or harsh engagement, hard 1–2 or 2–3 shifts, and in worse cases loss of 4th gear or reverse. Owners and shops commonly trace it to worn solenoids, the reverse boost valve, or clutch wear inside the 4T65E.

Fix: Early symptoms respond to a fluid/filter service plus solenoid replacement. A P1811 code or worn internal clutches point to a reman or rebuilt transmission — the wide cost range reflects that gap.

Sources: CarComplaints — 2006 Impala transmission slipping (35 complaints), My Auto Store — why 9th-gen Impala transmissions fail

Symptoms: A tick noise for a few seconds to several minutes after a cold start when the car has sat 2+ hours, sometimes with a misfire code (P0300/P0306) if a lifter unlocks or collapses.

Fix: GM's TSB directs checking oil level and viscosity first — low or wrong-viscosity oil is a common trigger. If the tick persists, the fix is replacing the valve lifters.

Sources: GM TSB 10-06-01-007 — AFM valve lifter tick noise at startup, Impala Forums — valve lifter tick noise at start up

Symptoms: A single door stops locking or unlocking from the switch or fob, sometimes with a buzzing or grinding noise from inside the door, as the small actuator motor wears out.

Fix: Replace the actuator in the affected door — a common, DIY-friendly repair on this platform.

Sources: CarProblemZoo — Impala power door locks not working, Go-Parts — GM door lock actuator failure, 2004–2020 Impala et al.

Symptoms: A clunk felt through the wheel or heard from the steering column during turns or over bumps.

Fix: GM TSB 01-02-32-001 (revised 2008) covers lubricating or replacing the upper intermediate steering shaft with a redesigned part.

Sources: RepairPal — steering clunk from upper intermediate shaft, GM Inside News — image/discussion of the Impala intermediate steering shaft

Tools: Trim panel removal tool, Screwdriver set, Socket set

1. Remove the interior door panel (pop trim clips, remove screws behind the handle and armrest, disconnect the panel's electrical connectors).
2. Peel back the plastic vapor barrier to access the latch/actuator assembly.
3. Disconnect the actuator's electrical connector and unbolt it from the latch assembly.
4. Install the new actuator, reconnect the wiring, and test lock/unlock before closing the door back up.
5. Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel.

Tools: Screwdriver (glovebox stops)

1. Open the glovebox, release the side stops so it drops down fully, and open the cabin filter door.
2. Slide out the old cabin filter and insert the new one in the same airflow-arrow orientation.
3. Unclip the engine airbox lid, lift out the old panel filter, and drop in the new one seated flat.
4. Re-clip the airbox lid and re-seat the glovebox.

Tools: Floor jack + jack stands, Lug wrench, Socket set + caliper bolt sockets, C-clamp or caliper piston tool, Torque wrench

1. Loosen the lug nuts, lift the front of the car, support it on jack stands, and remove the wheels.
2. Unbolt the caliper, lift it off (hang it with wire — don't let it dangle by the hose), and remove the old pads.
3. Compress the caliper piston with a C-clamp so the new, thicker pads will fit.
4. Fit the new pads and hardware, reinstall the caliper, and torque the bolts to spec.
5. Reinstall the wheels, torque the lug nuts, then pump the brake pedal until firm before driving.